Category: General

The concrete industry covers a broad range of terms that seems unique and unfamiliar for some people. To help the public on how to have a general understanding of the terms used within the industry.

Here is the list of the most commonly used terms and definitions in the industry:

Abrasive Aggregate

The aggregate used to make the concrete slab more abrasive. 

Absolute Volume

This is the actual volume of different ingredients that can be determined by the weight of each ingredient being divided by its gravity. Then multiplied by the weight of one cubic foot of water in pounds. 

Absorption

The process of water absorption is usually expressed in percentage.

Absorption Loss

Water losses that happen while the aggregate in a concrete mix undergoing the maturation process. 

Acceleration

This refers to the process of quickly solidifying and hardening the concrete using an additive mix. 

Aggregate

This refers to the mixture of sand, rock, crushed stone, expanded materials, or particles. 

Asphalt

A black petroleum residue, which can either be solid or semisolid. It is a mixture of aggregates, binders, and fillers, used for different forms of construction like parking lots, roads, railway tracks, homes, buildings, sidewalks, ports, bicycle lands, etc. 

Backfill

It is the process of replacing the excavated soil into a trench or foundation after the excavation work is done. 

Ballast

It refers to the layer where the concrete is placed, usually made up of coarse stone, gravel, slag, etc.

Barrel

A unit used for measurement of Portland cement. It is equal to four bags of 376 pounds.

Bedding

It refers to the ready base for concrete or masonry. 

Bond

The state of bonding between the cement paste and aggregates. 

Casting

It refers to the process of pouring a liquid material into a mold or any hollow cavity of the desired shape it will take on as it solidifies. 

Cement

A material that acts as a binder of fine ground powders that hardens when mixed with water. It is one of the components of concrete. 

Cement Mixer

A manual or power operated container that is used to mix concrete ingredients using a circular motion.

Concrete

It refers to the mixture of Portland cement, aggregates such as gravel, sand, and rocks, and water. It is used to build a garage, homes, buildings sidewalks, patios, and walls. 

 Concrete Block

A concrete masonry unit that is bigger than a brick.

Contractor

A person licensed to perform certain types of construction work. 

Dry pack

It is a stiff sand-cement mortar that used to renovate or repair narrow areas that are usually deep than wide. 

Edger (edging trowel)

A tool used to polish edges or round corners on concrete or plaster.

Filler Forms

It is used to connect two metal forms that have gaps in between. 

Finishing

This refers to the polishing, smoothing, compacting, and leveling of concrete or mortar to come up with the desired appearance or result.

Flatwork

It refers to flat surfaces like concrete floors, driveways, basements, and sidewalks.

Gunite

Another term for dry-mix shotcrete. 

Hydration

It refers to the chemical reaction that takes place upon mixing the cement with water. 

Joint

It refers to the state where multiple building materials are placed together using any extra joining products 

Kiln

It refers to a furnace, oven, or heated enclosure for drying, hardening, or burning various materials.

Line

It refers to a nylon string that is used as a guide to forms in grading.

Masonry

It pertains to the cast-in-place concrete. It is the building structures of individual units that are bound together by mortar. 

Mix

This is a general term referring to the combined ingredients of concrete. 

Mortar

A mixture used in masonry work usually composed of cement, lime, sand, and water.

 No-Fines Concrete

This refers to a concrete mix in which only the coarse gradation of aggregate is used. 

Paver, Paving

Materials typically a stone, slab or masonry, that are placed down to make an even surface. 

Placement

It also refers to pouring. This is a process of placing and consolidating concrete. 

Portland Cement

It is the most common type of cement that is made up of a synthetic blend of limestone and clay. It is generally used worldwide as a basic ingredient in concrete, stucco, and mortar.

Reactive Aggregate

This refers to the aggregate substances that potentially react, expand, or develop chemically during the hydration process of the Portland cement. 

Sack Mix

This refers to the amount of Portland cement in a concrete mix. 

Tensile Strength

It refers to the maximum unit stress that a material is capable of handling or resisting under tension. 

Troweling

It refers to the process of smoothing and compacting the unleveled surface of fresh concrete using a trowel. 

Vermiculite

It is a type of an aggregate that is used as an aggregate in lightweight roof decks and deck fills. 

Water Stop

It is a synthetic rubber strip of a concrete structure used to join in concrete foundation walls. It is also used to prevent water leaks in concrete joints.

 

 

As the seasons change, as snow comes and goes, the homeowner has to adapt accordingly. In order to ensure that when the ground begins to thaw, your sprinkler system is ready to be revitalized, you have to be careful about how you undertake things.

Winterizing your sprinklers is one task, but spring startup is another. Starting it again during springtime is an entirely different task with all of its own trials to face.

Tools to Prepare

To save you from the trouble of breaking your sprinklers, let’s get to talking about the steps to turning back on during springtime. First, prepare the following tools:

• Shovel
• Screwdriver
• Sprinkler Adjustment Tool
• Pliers

You will need the shovel earlier on, as we’ll explain later, as a way of testing the readiness of your lawn. The screwdrivers, sprinkler adjustment tool, and pliers are all tools you’ll most likely need in adjusting your sprinkler heads to optimize their performance, so it would be best to keep them on hand.

Remember, remember!

Here are a couple of reminders that you should know before actually reviving your sprinkler system after the passage of winter:

Value your patience

As you will learn, later on, you’ll be spending the majority of your time in this home maintenance task waiting for the right opportunity to spring into action, and the rest you’ll be spending by observing for any cracks, damages, and deficiencies. It’ll take a lot more time than you’d think, but it’s all worth it to keep you from spending your hard-earned cash on replacement parts, or worse—replacing your entire sprinkler system.

Avoiding water hammers

As awesome as water hammers may sound (it’s like they’re a unique power in some 70’s action cartoon), this is what’s referred to when there is a pressure surge that occurs when a fluid is suddenly forced to stop or change direction. Water hammers, in the context of your sprinkler pipes, can cause irreparable damage and cost a lot of money. To avoid water hammers, be sure to take things slowly, and go back to the first reminder.

Startup Time!

Do the Dig Test

This part of the experience is as simple as it gets. All you have to do is ready a shovel and dig into the soil. If it takes too much effort to dig more than a foot into the ground, then your lawn isn’t ready yet for the sprinkler revival.

If the greenery on your lawn is on the verge of death and in need of irrigation then you have no choice but to bust out the good old hose and water your yard the old-fashioned way.

Valves galore

Go to where the shutoff valves in your house are—usually in the basement or somewhere in the backyard. Slowly twist them open so that the water slowly leaks into the pipeline. I say “leaks” because it’s important to take this step slowly: remember, water hammers are a big no-no.

General Maintenance

All that’s left to do is general maintenance. Now that your sprinkler system is back up and running, it’s time to check your valves for leakages and damage, to see if the spray pattern on your sprinklers indicate a need for adjustment, to see if your sprinkler heads are in need of a bit of cleaning, etc.

The curing process is the best way to strengthen the durability of the concrete. By doing this process, you will be able to avoid cracks on the surface. The curing process mainly needs water to be done. It is a process of keeping the surface level hydrated with water while the deep level is not yet dried. 

The curing process is done after the concrete was poured and finished on the surface. This should be done after six hours of settling the concrete. However, this must be applied before 24 hours. If you fail to do it after a day, the concrete will totally dry on the outside but wet inside. In short, failed.

The sun may affect the drying process of a concrete. That is why it is important to wet the concrete with water starting from morning until noon. Doing the curing process late may affect the concrete thus making an effect that you would not want to attain.

There are factors that affect the curing process. By knowing these factors, you will be more aware of what you would do and would not do.

Factors affecting the curing process:

Chemical composition– there are some chemicals mixed into the concrete that affects its drying process. That also means that it affects the curing process as well. There are chemical compounds that are invented for making the curing process faster. Usually, that is used for urgent projects. 

Water-cement ratio- the more water used, the longer the drying process is. because there is a lot of water that needs to moist in order for the concrete to fully dry. However, if the ratio of cement is higher than the water, the drying process will be faster. 

Mixture– The materials that are used can affect the whole process. This also connects to the aggregates that are used.

Characteristics of aggregate- there are many aggregates that can mix to cement to make concrete. One can depend on what type of concrete you need. 

Temperature– the temperature has a great impact on how long the concrete could stay wet. For a colder temperature, the drying process takes longer. For a hot temperature, the drying process rapidly reduced.

The curing process is important because we have to consider the stability of the concrete. There are actually three factors on why you should do the curing process. Because some just leave the concrete behind.

Here are the reasons why you should do it.

1. Hydration of cement- while the bottom is still not dry, the concrete must still be hydrated. To prevent premature construction of concrete, the top layer must remain wet.
2. Elimination of shrinkage- cracks can be caused by shrinkage. In order to eliminate this, do the curing process.
3. Absorption of the heat- what makes the top layer dry is because it absorbs the heat. In order to minimize this, the curing process is the one that you need to do.

There are many methods in doing the curing process, those are the following:

• Immersion
• Ponding method
• Spraying or fogging
• Wet covering

That’s it! I hope that you learned something in this blog. The curing process is easy if you will observe the process of your concrete. If in any case that this is too much for you, there are chemicals that can be used and professionals that can be called upon. 

Painting your house is a popular home project that lots of people do, and concrete is one material that people use a lot. You may need some help, if ever you want to remove paint. That might happen if you accidentally spilled it on a place that you do not want to color. Do not worry too much, just follow our steps to get rid of paint from your concrete.

Materials

Before doing anything, make sure that you have enough and the right materials to do it. You should always wear protective gear like masks and long-sleeved clothes because you might work with chemicals. You have to avoid contact as much as you can to avoid harm. Get the equipment and tools you need, so you can easily get them.

Preparation

Now, you have to make sure that the area is well-ventilated, and that there are no kids or pets around. You have to prepare your workplace to avoid any problem and prioritize safety. You also have to clean the place thoroughly. Use your vacuum our broom to do the job. If there are any loose paint, you should also scrape it or use a wire or steel brush.

Using a Paint Stripper

A paint stripper is very helpful in removing unwanted paint from your concrete. Apply a generous amount to the area you want to treat. Read the instructions of the manufacturer, and let it sit for the indicated amount of time. After that, get your brush and scrub the surface. You may also use your scraper to get rid of the loose paint. Use water and soap to wash the surface, let it dry, and inspect the result. Repeat the steps if you want to, or if you are not satisfied with how it looks. Make sure that you remove any traces of paint stripper with soap and water.

Using Absorbent Paint Stripper

If you are dealing with tougher stains, you have to make your absorbent paint stripper. You have to create a thick paste that will help lift the paint from your concrete. You will need fine clay or cat litter. Mix equal parts of that with your paint stripper, or if your paint stripper is already thick, you do not have to add too much of the absorbent material. Apply the mixture onto the surface, and let sit for several hours. Remove it then scrape the surface or use a steel brush to get the loose paint. After that, you may wash the area. If you are outside, we also recommend pressure washing, as it is fast and effective. Get rid of any paint stripper residue with soap and water. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the result.

Soda Blasting

We recommend soda blasting for larger areas and tougher stains. However, it is best to hire a professional for that. ou will need special equipment and materials, and you also have to have the skills to use them. Better visit the local hardware store.

Do not worry about unwanted paint on your concrete, because there are always ways to remove them.

The invention of a dedicated sprinkler system revolutionized residential and commercial irrigation. If it weren’t for the humble sprinkler, we would still be needing to manually water our lawns with a heavy garden hose every time the plant life in our yards needed watering.

But as fantastic inventions go, they’re not without their own susceptibility to breaking. Yes, sprinkler systems are wonderful inventions, especially the most modern models out there, but every now and again there will still be signs of damage that’ll show. A bit of wear and tear that comes with any material object that we use in our lives.

In the event of faults in your sprinkler system, there’s going to have to be someone to have to fix it. By then, you have two options: fix it yourself, or hire someone to fix it for you.

Whether you intend to make sprinkler system problems a DIY project or contact a service to do the job for you, it’s going to be a lot of help to get a bit of knowledge as to what’s in store for you.

Common Issues

Broken Pipes

When thick roots such as those from a tree grow too close to the pipes under your lawn, it can end up digging into your pipes or breaking them, causing a leak. Broken pipes can also be caused by shovel work that gets too out of hand. For either case, leakages in the pipes can often be detected when you find oddly moist spots in the soil when the water is left running.

Get a bit of PVC cement to patch up the pipes and they’ll be good as new as soon as the cement dries. Of course, this requires a bit of shoveling so prepare a shovel or a trowel, and a lot of elbow grease. For more extensive damage, you’re going to want to replace that part of the piping entirely.

Sputtering Sprinkler Heads

Since the sprinkler heads are the components most visible above ground, they’re going to be facing a ton of damage from all sorts of sources. For one thing, they can be damaged by natural elements such as a strong flood. Sprinkler heads can also face problems when a bit of dirt and grime have found themselves stuck on the sprinkler heads.

The easy solution for this is to shut off the water for a while to inspect your sprinkler heads for what may be causing the irregular irrigation. If it’s just a bit of grime stuck to the head, prepare to get it off with just a simple wash. If the sprinkler head has taken considerable damage from something more extreme, then it would be best to instead replace the head entirely. Depending on the type of head and the materials that it’s made of, you can have a varying range of prices to choose from.

Zones Not Working

If you have several zones in your lawn dedicated to specific grass and greenery, dead zones can end up wilting your precious plants. This particular issue may be a technical problem in the timers or the sprinkler system’s controller. As such, it would be best to get a professional to have a look at this issue.

If the timer or controller is broken beyond repair, it’s going to be a hefty price to pay for a new one but it’s a necessary sacrifice to save the life of your greens.

There are a couple of things that any new homeowner should come to know about maintaining the optimal function of their sprinkler system. Chief among them is adjusting the sprinkler heads.

The obvious outcome of neglecting the adjustment of your sprinkler heads is finding certain areas of your lawn either overwatered or underwatered. If the sprinkler heads aren’t adjusted to the needs specific to your lawn, you will end up with sections of your soil ending up soft and muddy while other parts will end up withered, barren, and dry.

Tools and Equipment

To undertake the task of adjusting the radius of your sprinkler head first you need to prepare your tools. Luckily, this is a simple enough job that all you’ll really need is a screwdriver, or optionally, a pair of pliers. If your sprinkler head specifically requires a set of specialized adjustment tools then prepare those as well.

Kinds of Sprinkler Heads

Understanding what the sprinkler head radius means is simple enough: it’s the measurement of the distance between the middle and edge of where your sprinkler irrigates. Adjusting this radius is crucial to how evenly distributed the water is on your lawn.

But of course, the adjustment may differ depending on the type of sprinkler head your sprinkler system supports. Get to know the most common sprinkler heads below:

Spray Head

These heads typically cover an area between 5-15 feet, so they’re the optimal choice for smaller lawns. These kinds of heads are fixed on the ground and do not turn nor move.

The radius for this type of head can be configured based on the nozzle that’s attached. Simply put the bigger the attached nozzle, then the larger the radius becomes.

Rotor Head

These kinds of heads operate by rotating from side-to-side by a rotor mechanism. They’re the best choice for larger areas, and the average radius for them is between 15-50 feet.

Since these heads are mechanized, they’re often far more complicated to adjust than the spray head, so it’d be best to consult the set of instructions included in the packaging. Otherwise, the radius should be adjustable with a screw found on the side of the stem.

Rotary Nozzle

The rotary nozzle is a bit of a combination between the previous heads, where they operate using a micro-rotor sitting atop a spray head frame. These are effective by a radius of 10-30 feet.

The previous method of adjustment for the rotor head is usually applicable for the rotary nozzle.

Impact Sprinklers

These sprinklers are among the first designs of residential irrigation that found widespread use. Unfortunately, this type of sprinklers usually doesn’t support an adjustable radius. That being said, its arc is usually adjustable by adjusting the clamps that determine the arc.

Takeaway

As you have probably noticed by now, every single sprinkler type is going to vary on how much work needs to be put into adjusting it, and it always involves a bit of trial and error. Rest assured, however, that taking your time into correcting the radius for your sprinkler heads will work wonders for the greenery on your lawn.

In today’s article, we will be tackling about how heavy the concrete is. 

Do you ever think about how heavy concrete could be? A hard, strong concrete that stands still to protect you from danger from the outside? Fortunately, there is an answer to that. It involves mathematical and scientific explanation. To understand more, let’s define each one by one.

What is Concrete?

Basically, concrete is made up of fine sand, cement, aggregates (there are many kinds of concrete and its differences are because of what aggregate is being mixed up. So, there are many kinds of aggregates), and water. This is commonly used as slabs, pavements. Wall, floor, or anything that can be found in your construction. 

How much does it weigh?

Well, honestly, there is no specific weight of concrete. Concrete’s weight determines by several factors such as its form, how many is it, and its capacity measure.

Mathematically, concrete weighs for about 3,500 pounds up to 3,900 pounds per its measured capacity. This particular weight only involves the normal type of concrete. Weight may vary depending on its kind.

Factors that can change a concrete’s weight:

There are some factors that should be considered in knowing concrete’s weight. It involves its form, its element, and its kind.

Concrete form

A wet concrete is heavier rather than a dry concrete. Why? Because the water that is present on wet concrete and is absent on dry concrete makes the concrete much heavy. To explain further, a powdered form concrete and a concrete that is already applied and dried weighs the same. When the water is added to the mixture, making it in a paste-like form, it becomes heavier. That is because of the weight of the water combined with the weight of the concrete. However, when the water starts to evaporate resulting in moisture, the water now leaves the concrete making it weigh lighter again. 

Element that is present on the mixture

As I have said a while ago, a concrete has different kinds depending on the aggregates used. For a lightweight concrete, it may be lighter for it has different aggregates used. Also, water is another element that is present in the mixture. The more water used, the heavier the concrete gets.

Kind of Concrete

There are many kinds of concrete. Some have steel in it making it tension resistant but also making it heavier. I have an example here. Mostly, these three kinds are commonly used at any construction.

Lightweight concrete weighs lighter than the other concrete that you can found. This concrete is not advisable to be used on buildings and pavements. This can be applied to retouching, though.

Ordinary concrete weights up to 3,900 pounds per capacity measure. It is commonly used for pavements and floors. 

Reinforced concrete weighs a lot much heavy rather than the two mentioned above. Because of its steel, it becomes much heavy. Reinforced concrete is commonly used for strengthening the walls making it resistant for any tension such as earthquakes.

Now, that is all the basic things that you need to know. In the end, all concrete weighs differently. That is why it is important to ask the manufacturer first. 

If you want to hang something on the stucco or plaster walls – whether a frame, a wall clock, or any decorative object, it would be quite challenging because they can easily crack and crumble especially if strained by a power drill. But this doesn’t mean that you can’t hang any decors in your stucco wall. Using the right materials and process, you can easily hang any fancy object on your stucco wall without the need to drill. 

USE ADHESIVE HOOKS 

1. Pick the right adhesive strips 

There are a variety of adhesive strips with hooks that you can use. Pick the one with a strong adhesive capacity designed for outdoor use. Read the packaging for information about how much weight they can support. You must select the one with a higher support capacity that could carry twice as much as the object you are planning to hang. For heavier objects, you can use multiple hooks. If you’re planning to on stucco outdoors, choose an adhesive strip that is rated for outdoors. Otherwise, if you will hang a frame or painting with a hanging wire, choose an adhesive strip with a hook that is fit to accommodate wires. 

2. Clean the wall or surface

Using rubbing alcohol, you can clean or scrub the surface to prepare it for the adhesive application. If there’s any dirt or particle, it will be hard for the adhesive to stick properly to the stucco. Allow it to dry first before sticking the adhesive. 

3. Point and mark the area where you want to apply the hooks 

Use a pencil to mark the point where you want to apply the hook. Applying the adhesive hooks right the first time is much better than removing it to reapply. It is very important to apply it right especially if you’re using multiple hooks or you will need to use wire backing of a frame or painting.  

4. Attach the hooks to the stucco 

Peel off the adhesive backing and place the hooks to the point in the stucco that you mark. Check the packaging for further instructions on how to properly adhere to your hooks to the stucco. Take note that adhesive strips are often difficult to remove, so it is important to stick it correctly the first time. If you need a stronger hold, you can add a touch of hot glue to the adhesive before sticking.

5. Hang your object on the hooks gently

Even if your adhesive hook is strong enough, you may need to hang or attach your objects carefully so that they don’t pop off the stucco. 

 USE A WIRE HANGER

1. Use wire hangers to hang frames with heavyweight 

Be sure to choose the right wire hanger that can pierce into the stucco walls. These are curved steel wires that can almost support over 100 pounds (45 kg). These are also removed easily and can leave a very small hole.

2. Mark the spot where you want to place your hook 

 Using a pencil, you can draw a trace mark where you prefer to place your hook. For objects that require wire backing, including the spot where you want to insert the hook. Larger objects may require multiple hooks to support the wire. Make sure to measure so that the hooks are in proper alignment. You can use a ruler or tape to measure this. 

3. Pierce the wall using the sharp end of the hanger

 It may take some amount of force to pierce the stucco but make sure not to crush or bend the wire hanger. It would help if you rotate the wrist in penetrating the spot. Once a hole is made, the wire must slide through easily.

4. Push the hanger into the wall in a position that the hook is right side up 

Once the wire slide easily through the wall, rotate the hanger so that the straight end of the hook is penetrating against the inside of the wall.

5. Hang the frame or object gently

 The hook should be sturdy enough to hold and support it.

USE A DOUBLE SIDED TAPE 

1. Use outdoor double-sided  mounting tape to hang light frames and objects

You can hang light objects and decor on your stucco wall by using good quality double-sided mounting tape. Just make sure to select one that is designed for outdoor use because these are they have the strongest adhesive capacity. 

2. Clean the surface area with rubbing alcohol

How clean or dirty the surface can affect how well the tape will adhere to the stucco. 

3. Cut strips of tape and stick them on the object that you want to hang

Instead of applying the tape to the wall, attach one side of the tape directly to what you want to hang first. Peel off the one side of the tape and stick it to the object so that it is not obvious when you hang it. Usually, Double-sided tape is strong enough to hold up to 5 pounds (2.3 kg) or even more. 

4. Strip the back of the tape and hang on the wall

Once there is enough tape on the object, you can remove the back of the tape and attach the adhesive to the stucco. 

5. Hold the object against the stucco for a few to make sure it sticks long

 

Installing retrofit windows on the stucco wall is not too difficult. The challenge is to ensure that it doesn’t leak and that it looks clean and polished. If you are planning to install a new window by yourself.

Here are the steps that you must follow:

1. Assess the existing window

Identify if the window is made of wood, steel, or aluminum. The existing frame of the window will be intact while the interior portion of it will be disassembled or detached. This is to avoid dismantling the weather-resistant barrier or the wall which is responsible for protecting against moisture entering the home or property. 

Since you are installing a retrofit window on a stucco wall, you should use an appropriate sealant that is compatible with the substrates. For example, Siloxa-Tek 8500 is an excellent sealant for stucco. It is also a salt repellent sealer. So if you reside in a tropical state with salts in the air, this sealer will prevent cracking, spalling, and pitting. 

2. Measure the opening

From the existing window, take off the sash members and metal rails to make sure that you are measuring the narrowest point in your window. This is the daylight opening measurement. Get the daylight opening width measurement at three angles – top, middle, and bottom. Afterward, get the height measurement in three angles – left, middle, and right. When you have the narrowest width and height measurements, subtract ¼ from each to get the “net frame size” for ordering. 

Once the new retrofit window is installed, its flush fin will lay perfectly flat against the existing window frame and stucco. Check closely if there’s any part that extends past the stucco or siding. If there’s any, cut way such excess parts. Hinges and drip legs before installing. 

3. Inspect the window prior installation

If there is any damage to the window frame joining seals, it must be repaired. The sill track should be able to hold water without leaking to the interior for at least 15 minutes. After the inspection, disassemble the existing window by removing the vent panel, center post, fixed panel, and any other components that will interfere with the installation. Just keep the existing frame intact. 

4. Polish the exterior surface of the wall

Using a stiff bristle or brush, putty knife, scrape or grind any rough texture on the exterior surface where the flush fin of the new window will be placed. This leaves a smooth surface for installation. Don’t forget to also remove dirt from the sill track. 

5. Test the retrofit window if it fits the size of the opening       

Before caulking, test fit the retrofit window size if the frame matches flush against the wall or as close as possible. If there’s a gap found, try to lessen it as much as possible by using additional blocking for sill support. You can also trim the flush fin if a narrower width is needed.

6. Pre-drill pilot holes into the interior channel of the new frame 

Avoid drilling into the sills. Holes must be no more than 18” apart, on center, with corner holes approximately around 6” from the end. Make sure that nothing interferes with the sash operation.

7. Put a continuous bead of sealant along the exterior perimeter of the window

Run the sealant along the exterior of the window where the flush fin connects with the wall. Leave a 2” allowance at each corner at the sill to allow any moisture to evaporate. 

8. Insert the new retrofit window into the opening

Make sure that the retrofit window is level and precise by shimming the frame from the interior. 

Install shims at fastener points where it is possible. Using a pan head screw, secure the window in place. You can begin from the upper jamb corners. Go over the level and shim if needed. In the opposite jamb, place an additional screw and recheck for level. If the frame is properly level, attach the rest of the screws.

9. Run a bead of sealant around the exterior edge of the flush fin

Once the window is secured, finish with sealant sound the exteriors of the flush fin. Wipe off any excess for a clean look. Meanwhile, from the interior, use a backer rod or insulation material to fill the gap between the old and the new frames. You can hide the void with flat interior trim or any of your choice. Run a bead of sealant along the edge of trim for a clean, polished look. 

 

Proper heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) are essential to offices, homes, subways, malls, hotels, and other places that have to be comfortable for the people. To have the best HVAC system to fit your need, you have to choose the best contractor.

Here are some guidelines and tips to help you avoid mistakes, save some money, and get the quality service you need.

Search for HVAC Contractors near you

Look for HVAC contractors around your area for easier access. This might mean that some of your friends, relatives, or co-workers know something about the company so you may ask them to give you some advice which will greatly help your decision-making.

Check the Ratings and Reviews

The stars given by previous clients, as well as their reviews and referrals, will help you get an insight into how good of a job they do. Be open to criticisms and the problems stated by the past customers so you can be ready to address these obstacles.

Do a Background Check

To give you a sense of security, you must check if their technicians are licensed, insured, and have sufficient certificates to work. You want to make sure that you are working with a top-rated HVAC company with respectable and effective technicians.

Be Involved!

Don’t be afraid to get involved. You are a possible client, after all. Always tell them your preferences, opinions, and suggestions. Do not be afraid to ask them questions if something is not clear or bothering you about the project. Do not be afraid to communicate. This will help them get a better idea of what you want.

Look for a Concrete Plan

Make sure that the contractor you are planning to work with has plans of evaluating the place where you want your HVAC system placed. This is important for you to get correct measurements and avoid mistakes. This will also help them think of the best units, insulation, and other materials needed.

Get Estimates

If a company truly lives up to its good reputation, it should not be afraid to give you an honest estimate. The contractors should tell you all the prior fees that you need to pay. Be ready for unexpected costs though, for these are only estimates.

Don’t stick to one company, ask others too so you can have a wide variety of HVAC contractors to choose from. Compare and contrast these estimates and relate them to the information you gathered earlier about reviews and ratings.

Keep the Environment in Mind

Do not forget the planet! Choose an HVAC company that values energy-efficient and eco-friendly choices. This will not only help you save our planet but also save some money. Think not only of the comfort you want to provide but also of what help you can do for our environment.

 

All of these tips are very important if you want the right HVAC system for you. Take all of these into consideration when you are making your decision and everything will be good!